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    How to Judge Fabric



In the market, during shopping, sometimes we cannot judge whether the seller is telling the truth or not. A seller may say that this fabric is full Cotton or pure Silk etc. and also looking at the brands, like this fabric is made of this brand or that brand, a problem of real brand names confuses us. But some typical points can make you a semi expert in the field of choosing the right fabric or the brand. Some simple points of fabric judgment is given below:

1.Look: Look at the fabric carefully, very carefully. A fabric is always binded at the two sides, called the "selvedges". In case of garments look from the rare ends (may be selvedges or stitched ends), you will find a set of yarns parallel to the ends (or selvedges) called the "warp set" and there will be perpendicularly interlaced set of yarns called the "weft set". If the weft set is not absolutely perpendicular to the fabric ends (or selvedges), then it is a faulty fabric. A reputed company must not produce this type of fabric.

Here, one point is to remember that Twill designs (jeans, denims etc.) may seem to have diagonal effect, but that is due to their particular type of interlacements, weft always move perpendicular to the selvedges, check this carefully.

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If you are buying a fabric piece then see the selvedges, they will be parallel to each other. A good brand fabric must not produce conical or curvy selvedges. Selvedge is the sign of the "brand". You must have noticed that selvedges of different brand fabrics are made of different coloured fancy yarns and the brand name is written over there by Jacquard designing. The fancy yarns used at the selvedges for a typical brand fabric is unique and that is not so easy to produce in duplicate. So, you have to know and remember the actual colour of that fancy yarn. Some companies use two or three types of fancy yarns at the selvedges, not more, because that is their actual sign of brand, not the name written by Jacquard design because that can be done by other duplicate manufacturers.

On the body of the fabric, look at the individual yarns and if you find very frequent lumps of fibers forming a thick place (called neps), then the fabric quality is poor. On 1 sq-mt. 1 nep is inevitable for woollen fabric.

2.Touch and Feel (Fabric handle): Touch the fabric and see its thickness by two fingers, moving along any direction of the fabric. A good quality fabric will have equal thickness allover, though some embroidery or stitched work may increase the thickness of that portion. But the base of the fabric always has same, uniform thickness. Now give a little sideway pressure by clamping with two fingers of your two hands at any point of the fabric. If the yarns (warp or weft) are displaced from their position and creates a gap, then you can say the fabric is loosely woven i.e. the quality of weaving is poor, fabric is not good. But here, remember one important thing, for Cotton fabric it is a good sign. Cotton fabric of very fine counts (fine yarns) will show an eye-shaped gap in this test.



3.Drape: It is one of the measure of fabric stiffness, the ability of the fabric to assume a graceful appearance in use. Take one corner of the fabric and let it bend on the edge of a table, the more it bends, less its stiffness and will fit into body with grace. If the stiffness of the fabric is less then it is a good crease resistant also in general. Amongst the common textile fabrics, the order of diminishing crease resistance is Wool, Silk, Rayon, Cotton, Flux, Jute etc. If pure Wool is blended with other fibers like Polyester or Acrylic then its drape will be less, more stiffness and less crease recovery will result than pure Woollen fabric.

4.Pilling: It is not possible to test the durability or abrasion resistance of a fabric standing in a shop. Therefore, pilling test will give you some knowledge about the abrasion resistance, serviceability and wear of the fabric. Grip two portions of the fabric by your two hands and rub them against each other (without showing to the shopkeeper) with mild pressure for 2-3 min. After that notice how many pills (small balls of loose fibers) have formed on those rubbed parts. For woollen fabric number of pills will be generally more. Fewer pills will be for synthetic fibers or filaments. This test is very important for shirts, blouses, lingerie and knitted outwears which undergo several washings. For heavy garments this test can be omitted.

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5.Wetting: There are generally various laboratory experiments carried out to test the wettability of different fabrics. Just put a drop of water on the plain surface of the fabric. The water droplet may remain nearly spherical or become flat or may assume some intermediate shape. If the droplet becomes flat then the fabric is good absorbent of moisture, generally Cotton, Wool will give this type of result. If the droplet remain spherical or rolls on the surface of fabric, then the fabric is made of totally synthetic fibers, if not it is a water repellent fabric. A fabric with good wettability will give better comfort.



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